Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan review – a

For the New Yorker writer, chasing waves was far more than a sport. It was a calling, a means of working out his place in the world

It's been a bittersweet week for surf literature. ‹ Literary Hub

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Book Review: Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

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Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life review: The big Kahuna's worth the